Getting Started in Duck Hunting
The Recipe of a Successful Waterfowler
No matter how you look at it, the barriers to getting started hunting are high, and waterfowl is no exception. It is easy for beginners to watch a duck hunting show on The Outdoor Channel and see tricked out boats on private marshes, polished gun dogs, and hundreds of decoys and think that they are better off taking up golf.
It doesn't have to be difficult! People have been successfully hunting ducks for thousands of years without fully flocked decoys, $1000 waders, or even a duck call. Although these can help, some of the most rewarding hunts are spent with an old, hand-me-down shotgun, a flannel shit, and a thermos full of coffee. We have put together a list of what you need to get your feet wet (or keep them dry) in the wonderful world of waterfowl.
Shotgun
The only absolutely necessary piece of equipment for a duck hunter is the shotgun. Like most things, there are many options that to consider. A good place to start is a 12 gauge with a pump action. They are reliable, versatile, and quite often, cheap. Someday when you upgrade to a nicer gun, they make a great backup to leave in the pickup. Many places that sell used guns will have a used pump for in the neighborhood of $200. You'll want to make sure the gun has removable choke tubes or that it is safe to shoot steel through the barrel (some have fixed chokes made to shoot lead). A gun sling on swivel studs can be a nice addition as well.
That and a box of shells and you are good to go! For now, don't get too wrapped up in camouflage guns, semi-automatic, or 3 1/2" chambers. Those may all be nice features to have but I promise you, the ducks won't know the difference.
Shells
In all 50 states, you must use nontoxic shot when hunting waterfowl. For us hunters, that means steel, bismuth, or tungsten. Steel shot is the most widely used of the three and it will be the most cost effective. The size of the shot you should be using depends on many factors that should be sorted out by patterning your gun, referencing a guide like Tom Roster's Shot Lethality Table, and knowing what kind of duck and ranges you will be encountering. Long story short, a good place to start is to shoot 4 shot and don't take very long shots.
Decoys
The first thing that comes to mind when people think of duck hunting is decoys. No doubt there is an overwhelming amount of options. Different brands, species, sizes, prices - do the ducks really care? Hard to say. For a hunter just starting out, decoys may not even be necessary. There are plenty of ducks to be had by jumping or pass shooting ducks. I cut my teeth as a hunter pass shooting puddle ducks between two sloughs.
Although it can be done, many waterfowlers prefer to hunt over decoys. During the duck season I will hunt over many different brands and I have yet to notice a major difference in how the ducks respond to the decoys. Pickup a box or two of GHG essential series mallards, get some texas rigs on them, and throw some matte clear coat spray paint over them hit the marsh!
Duck Calls
A big part of the fun in the field is talking to the ducks. A duck call in hand can be an excellent tool some days and other days a red flag to ducks. Part of the fun is learning to call and seeing those interactions play out in the field. I have been hunting and calling ducks since I was a boy and one of the easiest blowing, best sounding calls I have is a cheap Buck Gardner call I bought at Walmart. I recommend picking one up, watch some YouTube videos (like duckology by fowled reality), and get to blowing!
Waders
Where I hunt, I am frequently in marshy muddy areas where it is very likely or possible that the ducks I shoot will be dropping in water. I also do not hunt with a dog that could retrieve downed birds from those areas. Today's waders come in breathable or neoprene options. Neoprene is usually the more economical of the two options. The thickness of the material and boots vary and can be matched for your hunting style and environment. Personally, I prefer a thicker neoprene with a less insulated boot for extra durability without roasting your feet early season.
Camo
Camo is an important thing while duck hunting due to waterfowl's keen sense of sight. They see the colors we do and even deeper into the blue spectrum. That being said color tone is much more important than what brand makes your camo. As you can see in the picture, I have had many successful hunts while wearing a flannel. The most important thing is that what your wearing matches the tone of your surroundings and you find a good spot to hide. Always be mindful of where the sun is at and try to hide in shadows, have something behind you, cover up or hide otherwise hide your face, and try to keep movement to a minimum when birds are working. Starting out, I would invest in a camo sweatshirt, preferably in a marshy camo, and either waders or a pair of brown/dark tan pants.
Gear list for under $500 dollars
Shotgun - Winchester 870 12ga. (used) - $200
Shotgun Shells - Federal blue box 12ga. 4 shot 3 inch (2 boxes) - $21.98
Decoys - GHG essential series mallards and texas rigs (12) - $59.99
Camo Sweatshirt - Under Armour IsoChill Brush Line Hoodie - $45
Waders - Cabela's Classic Series II Neoprene - $145
Duck Calls - Buck Gardner double reed duck call - $19.99
Total investment : $497 + tax
Gear list for under $1000
Shotgun - Winchester 870 express 12ga NEW - $375
Shotgun shells - Federal blue box 12ga. 4 shot 3 inch (2 boxes) - $21.98
Decoys - GHG essential series mallards and texas rigs (24) - $119.98
Jerk cord - rig 'em right portable jerk cord - $34.99
Spinning wing - Lucky duck junior with remote - $75
Camo Sweatshirt - Under Armour IsoChill Brush Line Hoodie - $45
Waders - Cabela's Classic Series II Neoprene - $169
Pants - Eddie Bauer Guide lite pants (slate green) - $80
Facemask - Buff USA camo uv buff shadowgrass - $30
Duck call - Zink Power Hen II - $35
Total investment : $986 + tax
Finding ducks
Unless you get lucky and happen to know someone with land that also will let you hunt, your best bet is to rely on your state's public hunting grounds. Most state agencies have good online maps that allow you to locate which lands you can hunt. When looking at the map, I try to locate marshes that look shallow, have vegetation in the water, and are by other bodies of water. Later in the season, I will turn my attention to crop fields around larger bodies of water. More on that in the scouting 101 page.
Once you locate a marsh, it is a good idea to drive out and see it in the daytime before you actually hunt. Take note of how you will enter the marsh, any potential obstacles to look out for and good places to set up and hide.
Quick tips
Know your state regulations before you go
keep your license in a zip lock bag so it doesn't get ruined
practice identifying ducks before your hunt
Call your State wildlife agency and ask questions, they are usually very helpful
The Hunt
On the morning of the hunt. Arrive to the slough with enough time to set up the decoys and get hidden with 15 minutes left to spare before legal shooting time. Usually the action is best in the half hour leading up to sunrise. If you are hunting near a populated area, keep in mind that someone may have beat you to the spot, so have a backup spot in mind.
Take your time, enjoy the morning, be safe, and welcome to the club.